By: Tshering Tempa, PhD

Bhutan
Posted: June 5, 2022
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Faculty Post

A Hike through Prayer Flags

Bhutan

As we proceeded further up, it was like unfolding a new chapter of a book that you do not want to close. The fir trees gave way to rhododendron scrubs and alpine meadows. Beautiful mountains, unique rock formations, and colorful prayer flags, new and old, all blended well, reminding us of oneness.

COVID-19 has been hard on everyone. It has affected all of us. The recent lock down was very hard, especially on our American students who were here for the School for Field Studies Spring semester program. Our students arrived in Bhutan on February 7th, 2022, but could move into the Center at the Gangtey Palace in Paro only after undergoing two weeks of quarantine at a government designated facility in the same district. Just two days after they moved into the Center, another lock down was declared in Paro. When I landed in Paro to join the Center, it looked like a ghost town, with hardly any vehicle or human traffic on the street, which is otherwise a bustling town. However, the scenic view from our Centre compensated for the down side of the lockdown. The spectacular view of the snow-clad mountain peaks at a distance, along with the lush green hills that formed the backdrop to Paro’s majestic Rinpung Dzong, was something that we all savored every day. It inspired us to contemplate our life. Although our students were cooperative and considerate, I could sense their genuine frustration with being under lockdown for so many days. So, when our Program Manager, Mr. Sonam Phuntsho, brought us news that he had managed to obtain permission from relevant authorities for us to visit the Chelela pass, we were elated.
 

Chelsea Pass. (Photo courtesy of the author).

The next morning, we enthusiastically embarked on our journey. We could hardly contain our excitement throughout our ride, and although the road to the pass was narrow and winding, no one seemed to mind. As we ascended towards Chelela on the winding road, through beautiful forests, the peak of the mighty Jhomolhari started appearing from the horizon. Other mountains look equally beautiful, with dashes of snow from the recent snowfall, much of it thawing from the spring sun. While the view of Jomolhari from the pass was incomparable to any other, an electric tower line spoiled the otherwise picturesque sight. Nonetheless, sipping a hot cup of tea at the pass while admiring the stunning view of Mount Jhomolhari, I was captivated by the beauty of nature and reflected deeply about the selflessness of these mountains that only nurture us.
 

Dr. Purna with students, heading towards the summit. (Photo courtesy of the author).

Our students hiked in small groups accompanied by a faculty member. As we started to ascend towards the highest point on the pass, I could feel my lungs trying hard to suck in oxygen from the surrounding thin air to keep me going, and so were the students. As we proceeded further up, it was like unfolding a new chapter of a book that you do not want to close. The fir trees gave way to rhododendron scrubs and alpine meadows. Beautiful mountains, unique rock formations, and colorful prayer flags, new and old, all blended well, reminding us of oneness. It took us almost two and half hours to reach the summit. I was among the first ones to reach the summit, where we found sky burial sites. I was told that only small children are brought here for sky burial. A few pieces of silk cloth that the Bhutanese use to wrap the departed were scattered nearby, but no fresh burial could be observed. The mere sight of sky burial reminded me of impermanence in our lives. I chanted prayers to the Buddha of Compassion to awaken the inner Buddha within me, so that my actions benefit all sentient beings. After the prayers, I sat for a few more minutes meditating about life until the fluttering prayer flags reminded me that it was time to head back to our bus. It was a quick descent and lunch was our incentive to walk down faster. Our catering team had displayed a buffet in a nice opening in the middle of a fir forest. A warm lunch after hiking for three and half hours through chilly winds was a welcome treat for all of us.
 

Dr. Purna with students, heading towards the summit. (Photo courtesy of the author).

The moment with those mountains and colorful prayer flags might have been short, but it gave us an enriching and priceless experience. Half of us dozed off as we descended the winding roads, only to be awakened by our driver when we were back at the Center.
 

Students and Phurba with Mount Jhomolhari as the background. (Photo courtesy of the author).

 

Students hiking towards the summit through colorful prayer flags. (Photo courtesy of the author).

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Curious to learn a bit more about the SFS Bhutan Center? Click here to read about why we’re based there, our environmental research focus, how we connect and support the local community, and even take a tour of the Center.


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